No other valley in the Alps opens onto this much altitude. From Andermatt the road forks four ways and every fork is a legend. South over the Gotthard on 24 cobbled hairpins. West over the Furka past the Rhône Glacier. North down the Reuss to the foot of the Susten. East over the Oberalp toward the source of the Rhine. Ride a loop from here and you cross more 2,000 metre passes before lunch than most regions hold in total.
The Swiss Alps are bigger than any one valley. The Valais holds the densest collection of giant climbs in Europe, the Engadin around St Moritz has the Albula and the Bernina, and the Vaud Alps above Gstaad keep their own quiet cols. This plate charts the corner we know best and keep coming back to, the pass country around Andermatt. Nowhere else in the Alps do seven legendary climbs radiate from a single valley floor.
These are engineered climbs, which is a compliment. The Tremola has been carrying travellers over the St. Gotthard on hand-laid granite setts for nearly two centuries and is now a listed monument. The Susten was built in the 1940s as the first Alpine pass designed for the pleasure of the journey, all wide sweepers and framed glacier views. The gradients are honest, six to eight percent for an hour or more, and the scenery does the punishing.
The race heritage runs deep. The Tour de Suisse has crossed the Gotthard 43 times, more than any other pass, and the roll of riders first over these summits runs from Bartali and Kübler to Bernal and Carapaz. Even the movies came here. The Furka's most famous corner is the one where James Bond's Aston Martin dueled a Mustang in 1964.